Experiencing Religion.

Every morning, Chaitanya begins the day with the same prayer. I have no idea what it means, but it's actually a nice way to ease into my day. I will try and get the translation soon. For now, I have managed to record it:

http://www.mediafire.com/?2fe5w2d25iskkwt

It is very beautiful to hear the women sing in unison.

Yesterday, I was invited to temple with my new friend Punam Raval. She and her family are from the state of Gujurat, which is just above Maharashtra. The walk was not far from the town, about 15 minutes or so, just off the highway. Yes, we walked along a highway.

As we got closer and closer to the temple, I noticed how quiet our surroundings became. There was only the sound of birds chirping, trees swaying, and our chopped up Marathi/English voices.

When we arrived at the temple, I was stopped in my tracks, mainly because I was hesitant to enter as I am not Hindu. I had no intentions to intrude, but Punam insisted and ensured me that I could take photographs. We took off our shoes (instantly, I stepped in bird shit :) and I followed her around the temple as she said her prayers.

The sounds and smells of the temple complimented and overlapped one another. Flowers and fruits were either lying scattered on the ground or piled together with incense burning. Puja, as this is called, or a symbolic offering.

What struck me the most was the inner shrine. I was definitely cautious of entering this since I was totally an 'outsider' and had no idea of the customs and practices. Punam, again led me in with her. As she placed the bindu (red powder dot) upon my forehead, I listened to the echoing sounds of the mantras. Being someone who is not religious, and who has no interest in practicing one, I found myself very honored and grateful for having this opportunity to see a religious custom. It allowed me to remind myself that I can respect religion and the people who practice even though I choose not to follow.

First Week in India.

My first week in India has been quite eventful and memorable. Arriving in Mumbai and seeing my first glimpses of the city was intense and hilarious. It's amazing how many people are in this country. When I was taken by car to Rajgurunagar, I thought that there would be less people because the location is further out and in the valley. That was not the case at all! Every where I looked there were people bustling and moving about. I couldn't believe it. I suppose with a country population of 1.2 billion it would be difficult to escape people. I thought that Rajgurunagar would be a small village of 20,000 poeple, but from what I was told there is anywhere from 40-60,000. This range is mostly due to the fact that no one gives an exact census to the government because otherwise taxes would increase, and the government would most likely use the funds to further corrupt practices. Very interesting.

On Tuesday I met my supervisor, Kalpana, and we discussed my goals and expectations for my internship at Chaitanya. We agreed that it would be best to take the week to get acquainted with the organization and the programs that are carried out. I mentioned that I would be interested in the Jankar program, which is focused around domestic violence and counseling for women and families. I think that this area would be helpful in understanding the dynamics of conflict within Indian culture and how counselors go about the process of resolving issues in the home.

Street in Rajgurunagar. Everyone drives a motorcycle. EVERYONE.

Kalpana invited me to a monthly Federation meeting that was being held in Junnar, about an hour from Rajgurunagar. First day and off to field work? Why not?! We took a truck out there and I was excited to see the local area. The drive was hilarious. Lots of speeding, sharp turns, driving in the opposite lane, oh, and honking. Lots of honking. Kalpana explained that the first rule of the road is: If you're bigger, you go first! Use the horn! So funny. I have both enjoyed and have been annoyed by the traffic here. All part of the experience!

We arrived in Junnar and I was introduced to a large group of mainly women, all who have membership and play important roles within Chaitanya. I did not sit in on the entire meeting, but was able to have a small discussion/interview with some of the Legal Jankars. There are three types of Jankars: Legal, Government, and Self Help Group (SHG) Jankar. Their goal is to train women in the areas of gender sensitive laws and women's rights. Legal Jankars will use counseling skills to help resolve family issues and problems, as well as inform women of their legal rights in India.

View of Rajgurunagar from atop a hill.

Chaitanya is the leading organization in promoting micro-finance programs in Maharashtra and is the first federation of SHG's in the state. The organization has been successful at forming 14 federations in 7 districts. The goal of the federation is to provide equitable and and affordable financial services to women.

As I said before, I didn't sit in on most of the meeting, mainly because it was all conducted in Marathi. I was able to talk with a few of the Jankars and was thankful to have a "translator", who is also my new friend, Tushar. This was quite an event. Turns out that Tushar has been lacking in his English skills, and since I have very little Hindi or Marathi knowledge there became a whole mess of translation errors and confusion. Most of which was laughed at. From what I could gather, the Legals were discussing with me different cases that they encounter that happen within their towns. Anything from domestic violence, issues with in-laws, and farming and land disputes. Many of the women have been working with Chaitanya for 10 or more years. They enjoy and work hard to promote the sustainability of women rights and empowerment.

Students of the Micro-Financing Management Program at Chaitanya

The rest of the week I took time to figure out what I wanted to do as far as my learning outcome and project. I read a few different reports about rural health for women in the Pune district and got more and more interested in that aspect. I had the opportunity to witness a negotiation of health services to be given to a local tribal village by a doctor in Junnar. It seemed that the process went really well as the doctor was from the tribal village. He agreed that he would conduct services for free once a week. After this meeting, Kalpana and I drove out to the tribal village to inform the leader that the people would begin receiving services that week. Tushar, Kalpana, and I went out to celebrate by grabbing a quick bite of fried vegetables.

On Friday, I went back to Junnar with my fellow intern and friend, Katarina who has been here for four weeks now and doing a report about the selection process of Jankars and the formation of SHG's. We were going to a Legal Jankar Training that was conducted by Ganga thai. She is a young women who has been involved in this area for a few years. There were 5 women who showed for the training. To become a Jankar you must be involved in trainings that happen once a month for one year. The topic for that afternoon was about domestic violence, what it is, where it occurs, and how to confront it. The students were informed about the Domestic Violence Act of 2005 that was passed in India.

The DV Act was passed to protect women from the hands of their abuser, whether it is a husband, live-in partner or the relatives of the partner. The law also extends to women who are sisters, widows, or mothers. The act defines domestic violence as being physical, emotional, economic. sexual, and verbal, as well as harassment of an unlawful dowry. One of the most important features of this act is the women's right to property and secure housing. The woman has the right to stay in the home that she has been married into regardless if her name is on the title or if she has rights to the house. This residence order has been passed by the court which is secured and cannot be passed against any woman. The law also enforces that the abuser cannot be engaged in communication or visit the abused at their place of work, or isolate any assets that are shared in the household. Women are also provided medical care, legal aid, and shelter.

Ganga-thai teaching about DV to Legal Jankar trainees

Coming to this meeting was very helpful in figuring out what it is that I want to focus on. Given that I am a student of Conflict Resolution I thought that it would be best to understand the dynamics of power and conflict within a family dispute or violence situation. How does cultural expectations and traditions fuel conflict within the home? What are the ways in which families handle conflict? What do Legal Jankars do to help the process of engaging in dialogue with spouses to overcome conflict or areas of DV? How are extended family members involved and what do they contribute to the overall process of conflict resolution? Or do the fuel the fire? I spoke with Kalpana about this idea and she gave me input on how this information could be useful for new staff members who come to work as counselors. By looking at different cases and examples from the past, as well as present ones, I should be able to gather information about dynamics and processes that counselors participate in. This would also help in making suggestions about what could be done to improve the conditions and functions of counselors.

It's been a long week, but a productive first week. It seems like it has been longer than a week given that I have not only been working, but also becoming acquainted with my living arrangements, with the people, and of course, eating so much good food! I have seriously been enjoying this time and I am hopeful and excited for the next 7 weeks I have here in Rajgurunagar!

And So the Journey Begins.

The day is finally here, people! Adios, Portland. Take care, USA. You will be missed, but the time has come to leave my home. It felt so surreal waking up this morning, knowing my days will soon be spent in India. Today has been circled, underlined, and starred in my calendar. With lots of exclamation points saying "India!!!!" This is totally nuts. I am completely giving myself to a new culture, to have everything thrown at me. I am ready to be stunned, shocked, excited, elated, confused, and humored.

These past couple weeks have been amazing in Portland. I finished up my first year of grad school and celebrated this victory with my cohorts. My employment at Pix Patisserie was wrapped up and it felt wonderful to be leaving on such good terms after nearly 4 years of slinging sweets and spirits. All my friends and family have been so supportive and excited for this trip, and I have enjoyed saying goodbye to them, either in person or by phone. Saying goodbye to my fiance Dan was not as bad as I thought it would be. Mainly because he has been incredibly supportive of my decision to intern in India from day one. Of course I will miss him, but because of his positive attitude it won't be so bad and I will be able to focus on the work I do. Thank you everyone for being so wonderful and giving your positive support!

In the meantime, I will be hanging out at SFO while I wait for my connecting flight to London. Which has now been delayed...

Mumbai in Film.

Over the weekend I watched Salaam Bombay, a film about a young boy named Chaipau who lives on the streets, and struggles to work is way out of Bombay (Mumbai). This film, which made its way onto my Netflix queue, was produced in 1988 by director Mira Nair, and was comprised of a cast that was full of children who had actually been living on the streets at the time. When I began watching this film I was instantly reminded of the recent Hollywood sensation, Slumdog Millionaire, and how similar, but extremely different the two are. What Slumdog lacks is the true grit that it takes to make it out of Bombay while at the same time being a realistic and compelling story. I am convinced that this blockbuster is anything but a Hollywood film that would fulfill our expectations of having a happy ending. Which is why I have been so moved by Salaam Bombay. It is not what you expect, yet everything you could about children living on the streets of the fast moving, fast growing metropolis.

Manju & Chaipau of Salaam Bombay

I won't spoil the film for you all, but I will discuss a few things that stood out to me as I watched the film. Life on the street, as I would imagine, is painfully difficult in a big city full of millions of people, especially as a child. This film explored the constant changes and spontaneous events that come up for both children and adults who live on the streets of Mumbai. From the daughter of a prostitute who longs to play with and get attention from her parents, to a boy who works selling and delivering chai tea to save money so he can go home. Poverty is constantly an issue for the characters of this film. It is a reminder that there are millions of people who have no way out, no access to resources and institutions that can pave a way to a better life. It is also a reminder, at least for me, of what we often take for granted. I am grateful for my life; I know that I am privileged to have not grown up in extreme poverty. Through this internship, my goal is to give back to the global community, to India, and learn from the experiences of this culture while at the same time being present and understanding. Suspending. Not judging.

Director Mira Nair

Also, what is interesting about the production of Salaam Bombay, the director established a fund for the street children that were in her film in order to rehabilitate them and help them get off the street. The trust is still in existence and continues to help children of Mumbai.

So, no. This film was not catchy in the sense that it had the sounds of M.I.A.'s Paper Planes echoing in the background. It certainly didn't have the true romance of star-crossed lovers yearning to be together. Not at all. It had a taste of reality, of what perhaps poverty is like in India. Although I have yet to be there, just short of a few weeks, I would say that I felt so much more connected to the point and interests that Salaam Bombay was trying to achieve. Watch it! Compare the two!

Finishing Touches.

Well, as of yesterday my program coordinator of IE3 let me know that India Study Abroad Program accepted my application for internship. This means that for eight weeks I will be at Chaitanya in the state of Maharashtra, and four weeks at Educate Girls in Rajasthan. So excited!

At the moment my dates of internship are June 19th to September 10th. I am not sure which place I will be at first, but will hopefully know that all very soon so that I may book my ticket.

More on this coming soon!

Malaria Loves Mosquitos.

For the first time in my life I am going to need to take precautions against the life-threatening disease known as malaria. I realize that this is a privilege as I was born in America and the disease does not exist here. This is not a reality for many people especially those who live in sub-Saharan Africa, Asia, and Latin America.

"In 2008, malaria caused nearly one million deaths, mostly among African children...In Africa a child dies every 45 seconds of malaria, the disease accounts for 20% of all childhood deaths" (WHO).

Malaria is a reality that many people must face on a day-to-day basis especially in areas that are warm and tropical. The disease is transmitted by mosquitoes who bite humans at night. Like all mosquitoes they breed in shallow water areas and the parasite is likely to develop successfully in places that are remote. The biggest concern for public health in India is malaria, especially in more deprived areas.

"The World Health Organization estimates that there were about 10.65 million malaria cases in 2006, responsible for over 15,000 deaths" (UNICEF).

Children are at such a high risk for catching malaria because their system is not yet immune. Travelers and foreigners to areas with malaria are also at risk for the same reason. With advances in medicine, malaria can be prevented with a daily dose of medication. However, there are drugs that have become resistant over time due to the intensity of the transmitted disease. I have been able to research the drug that I will need to take. There are quite a few different types out there, but the drug Doxycycline seems to be the best fit for me. The only thing I am irritated with is the fact that its expensive (from what I hear) and my student health insurance that I have to pay for each term does not cover the cost of prescriptions. What a bogus health plan. I would imagine the pills will cost a significant amount especially since I have to take one everyday.

Regardless of the cost I know that this is a disease, a parasite, that I have to avoid. For 3 months this is going to be an ongoing issue for me, and once I leave I am sure I will be relieved. Unfortunately, I can't say the same for the people of India. Global organizations will continue to work and fight for the health and safety of the Indian population, but until malaria has been eradicated there will be continued loss of life. This is something worth thinking about as I continue to prepare for my trip.

For more information on malaria, please visit:

Centers for Disease Control and Prevention - India

WHO - Malaria

Weather. Rain. मौसम| Lots Of It.

Monsoon. It has a looming and frightening ring to it, doesn't it? I couldn't have picked a better time to go to India. Just a hint of sarcasm there.

This season has been notoriously associated with floods in urban cities, wiping out villages, destroying crops, creating health issues and sickness, and more importantly, causing many deaths. Well, this is for the most part true, but there are some positive sides to this feared rain.

First, a little background on what exactly monsoon really is:

Monsoon, or मौसम (pronounced mausam in Hindi), means weather, and usually begins around June 1 lasting until September. The first state to get hit with the rains is the southern state of Kerala, making its way north to Maharastra and then Delhi by the end of June. The entire country is saturated with rain by July. The rains build up over time slowly, and when the downpour hits with intensity and vigor, that is the official monsoon announcement for wherever it is.

After the monsoon has made its appearance known with booming thunder, piercing lightning, and chaotic rain, the weather begins to calm down by producing rain that lasts a couple hours here and there. The sun can come out one minute and then be hidden by dark clouds the next. The humidity levels begin to rise during this time.

There are places that receive more rain than others such as Mumbai, Kolkata, Darjeeling, and Shillong. The last two that are listed get some of the most rains in the world because they are located in the Himalayas and get so much moisture from the Bay of Bengal.

From what I have read traveling during monsoon in India can have its perks. The lands are lush, vibrant, and green throughout the country. A good monsoon means that farmers will have plentiful crops to harvest once the season is over. The country is often hot during the other parts of the year, and heavy rain provides water to many communities. Many people travel to other cities to get fresh water and this can be deadly because of the heat.

Whats even better is that so many communities have holidays and festivities that are just for the monsoon season. For example, Teej celebrates the onset of the monsoon and all the great things it will bring for India in the coming months. There is also Aadi Perukku that is celebrated by the Tamil people which basically pays homage to various water properties in India such as lakes, rivers, wells, water basins, and where ever the water level rises.
When I've told people who have been to India the months I will be there they all have gasped! and remind me to be safe. It seems pretty crazy, but I am not scared just nervous to experience it. The way I look at it I have been living in a state that is known and associated with having loads of rainy days throughout the year. It's really not that bad. Who wouldn't love all the green that Oregon has to offer? I think I can manage just fine. Although, there is the humidity and that can be dreadful. To help prepare myself I just reflect on the fact that I lived a majority of my life in the central valley of California where temperatures can reach the 100s on a daily basis and average temps of 90 degrees is just the norm. I can deal with it. No prob. No pain, no gain.

Monsoon is definitely something to look forward to as part of my experience.