Dear India.

Being in India has seriously changed so much about me for the better. The people I met both in and outside of work have given me so much to learn from and pass on to others. It’s as though the experience has been a gift to me from all of India. A gift that I can’t ever forget and won’t forget. I thought I knew what the people would be like here, but I wasn’t even close. I was far from knowing that the people I met would be so kind, generous, and welcoming. I was far from knowing that I would make friends who genuinely care about me, my safety, and making me laugh. I was far from knowing how much the children would make me smile and take such interest in knowing who I am. And I had no idea that families, especially one in particular, would bring me into their home and treat me with such sincere and honest love. And even as I sit here alone, I am bringing myself to both tears of joy and sadness because I know how much love I have been given, and I have tried so hard to give it back. I’ve never felt anything like this before from complete strangers who would do anything to make me feel at home when I am thousands of miles away from my own. In a country where so many people have so little, they have done everything to make me feel apart of their lives, their culture, and their land. This is India.

I WILL be back India. I've already made that promise. There is more of your beautiful people that I haven't met. There is more work that I am interested in participating in. And there is no way that I am done surrendering myself to you and all your chaos! I will miss you and always love you. My friends. My India.

Challo!

Words From the Wise.

During the same EG monthly training in the Jalore district I also had the pleasure of meeting Gomati, a village elder who regularly attends these sessions. I was drawn to her instantly. Her powerful aura and keen interest was about all I could interpret from the long string of Hindi words she spoke in between the training. The woman’s skin was dark and weathered with her dress draped, and the bangles and earrings she wore were equally worn down. But she was strong in her words and her presence, which I found inspiring, and I wanted to talk with her. When the training was finished, Deepmala and I sat with her for introductions. Gomati is n elderly, widowed woman with 3 daughters and 1 son, all of which are grown and have their own children. As a child she was never enrolled in school, or has had any formal education. Her children went to school, but only completed up to the 5^th standard.

At the moment Gomati is struggling and is worried about her financial status since becoming a widow. She performs odd jobs around her village to make ends meet. The small pay she lives on provides for her food, home, and daily life. Although this is a difficult time for her, she continues to travel to surrounding villages for other meetings and trainings. Her determination is strong; as though she has waited her entire life for this type of involvement and change. It has been a meaningful experience because it has given me a view of my own access to education and ambition in higher education. I grew up, a young girl attending primary school and all the way into high school, with no problem and no one to tell me I couldn’t go. In a way, its as though my struggles in university (and there have been some) are almost mundane against the passion and commitment that Gomati has brought into light. At the same time, I feel as though we have similar interests and that is why I was drawn to speak with her. We both value education and what benefits it would bring for young girls and we both want to learn how we can support and contribute marginalized communities. We have different lives and different backgrounds, our cultures are thousands of miles apart and completely different, but our interests seemed to go along together. We both had an understanding of why each of us was there.

Now that Gomati is alone, her husband has expired and her children are living their own lives, she has taken it upon herself to become involved in the social issues of her community, village, and of Rajasthan. She attends many meetings in other districts to become informed and to inform others. As her life is coming to a close Gomati wants to be able to do some good by participating in social matters, especially that of women’s education and empowerment. She sees the trainings and meetings as a way to become educated. An education she never had. With this new knowledge she has conversations and dialogue with other women and young girls that live in her village. I could see that education to her was precious and valuable. Even though Gomati has never had a formal education, she is taking it upon herself to support and advocate for girls to have what she didn’t. It is this type of women’s peace-building which is engaging and self-sustaining that will move us into improving women’s education in India, as well as around the globe. When a woman, such as Gomati, can realize her commitment and ability to advocate, she brings acknowledgement to the issue and that the cause is worth fighting for.

Child Marriage.

For the last few weeks I have been visiting schools in tribal villages that surround Bali, Rajasthan. In addition to this, my research has focused on the connection between government laws, such as inheritance, dowry, child marriage, and that of the societal and cultural beliefs and practices of rural India. Meeting the different girls has brought me joy as they curiously and carelessly sought for my attention, and the commitment to stay informed on the issues they face at such a young age and as they grow into adulthood.

Child marriage in India can be defined as a marriage that is consummated in which the wife is under the age of 18 and/or husband is under the age of 21. Regardless of the national laws that are in place that prohibit child marriage, it is still widely practiced and a deeply rooted cultural value and expectation within society in many regions. In the state of Rajasthan, it is estimated that 80% of marriages are among girls under the age of 15 (Gupta, 2005, p. 2). The enforcement of the laws is important in this area, and yet for the most part the government either ignores or is uneasy about dealing with such personal laws when they occur in traditional communities. Looking the other way causes the community to continue holding marriages that involve brides that are underage because the community has the understanding that if the government does not care, then neither should they. This further encourages the cycle of poverty amongst communities with child marriages because it leads to higher child bearing rates, low economic and educational status, and poor health conditions.

The Marriage Bill of 1994 recommends “the enactment of a uniform law relating to marriages and for the compulsory registration of marriages, with the aim of preventing child marriages and also polygamy in society” (Marriage Bill, 1994). This would help many communities prevent child marriages from occurring, and lead to prosecution of the family that has carried out a child marriage. Unfortunately, the Bill, which could have been potentially helpful for the state of Rajasthan, was not passed. Although there have been many attempts within legislation to limit child marriage practice in Rajasthan, this continues to be an area of focus and struggle for many. As of now, there is no law that requires newlyweds to register their marriage with the government and state in Rajasthan.

Another legislative act that has been passed in India is the Prohibition of Child Marriage Act of 2006. This law was put in place to “prohibit the solemnization of child marriages” and for any matters that is of relation to a child marriage (Child Marriage Act, 2006). This Act prohibits a marriage that is below age of 18 for females and 21 for males. With the enforcement of this law, child marriage becomes punishable for the male if over 18, and/or the family that has participated in carrying out the marriage. The expected punishment is 2 years imprisonment and a fine of one lakh rupees for any who are involved, not including the child bride. The Act increases the severity of the punishment that was previously enforced from 1929. It also includes situations such as a child being enticed or taken from the legal guardian, forced into the marriage, or is sold and trafficked for the purpose of marriage, all of which are made void under law.

Rekha

During a monthly training session at a school in the Jalore district, I had the opportunity to meet a young girl named Rekha. She comes from a family of seven; her mother and father are both farmers, and she has two brothers and two sisters. Her favorite subjects are history, geography, and Hindi literature. Rekha is currently not enrolled in school.

Training Officer, Deepmala Sharma, facilitated and interpreted the interview for me, we were told by Rekha that she was married earlier this year, and is 18 years of age. There was something about her that told me otherwise; perhaps it was her bright, curious eyes or her silly, innocent giggling as I smiled at her. Frankly, I was convinced that she was much younger especially when she informed us that she left school after completing the 11^th standardS, which was just this past year. After some time we came to find out that she is 14-years-old. She only told us this because her family and in-laws do not want anyone to know that she is married at so young. The fact that Rekha knows that she is too young to be married, and that her parents and in-laws want her to cover it up, further complicates the issues of gender discrimination and inequality for women in India. Rekha is being manipulated and because of her young age, is being taken advantage of in order to support the system of child marriage.

I pressed to find out why she is not attending school and she explained that her in-laws do not want any continuation of her education. Rekha’s in-laws think that since their son has only completed the 9th standard, she would surpass him by finishing school which would make her status higher than his. Her future husband works in construction, and has no desire to complete any more schooling. It is believed that he is about 4-5 years older than her based on her story and the time in which he stopped attending school. By cultural standards and expectation, it is up to the in-laws to decide whether or not Rekha has an education. The in-laws are devaluing Rekha’s capability as a female in two ways: 1. by keeping her from reaching her full potential which would further increase her health, well-being, and decision making, and 2. by holding her status below that of a man which diminishes her right to equality between the sexes. Her parents would like to see her go to school, but as of now there is no way to convince the in-laws otherwise. They are submissive in obeying the in-laws wishes, and Rekha is not happy about this situation.

Determined not to give up, Rekha has decided that she will re-enroll in school and has been working on her application for the 12^th standard. She knows that her parents and family will support her decision, but is nervous as to what her in-laws reaction will be. When she is accepted back in to the school, Rekha will tell them and try to explain and make them understand her choice. She asked for our help in this situation, unsure of what to do or how to say it. I could see the passion in her eyes, and the strength and courage in her heart. We talked with her about her in-laws and how to get them to see her point-of-view. Avoiding any arguments at all costs would be best for her safety and well-being at this point. We came to the conclusion that if her in-laws continue to protest, then they should explain why they think it is a bad idea for her to go to school. Rekha could discuss with them why she should go to school and what benefits there are for herself and her future family.

Child marriage is an issue that young girls of Rajasthan face every day. With deeply embedded and intertwined social issues in Indian culture, child marriage becomes reinforced by the practice. Within child marriage comes many problems that challenge the livelihood of young brides. They have higher rates of early pregnancies, often unwanted, which can lead to high maternal and infant mortality. When there is an unwanted pregnancies, abortions that are unsafe for the mother are carried out. Sexually transmitted diseases can also be given to the bride if the husband has had prior sexual relations, which sometimes is the case if she is married to an older man. In the situation of Rekha, if she continues to be deprived of her educational needs and desires she runs the risk of losing any chance of knowing about proper health care for her self and future children. She may not be informed or aware of what resources are accessible to her, or how to find those that are not. The laws that have been passed to prevent child marriage have not been implemented to their fullest. It is not just the law that is important, but shifting the attitudes and beliefs about child marriage within the societal and cultural levels.


This is my final week of interning in India. I have been grateful for the time I have spent here and the people I have met. I could never have imagined that I would be so changed and influenced by this culture and by the many experiences that I have learned from.

Switching Gears.

It's been weeks since my last post. This I know.

After two months of interning at Chaitanya, I said goodbye to my co-workers and friends that I have made in the village. For my final project I wrote a report about the conflict resolving process that counselor's implement in their cases and how the goals of the Jankar program directly relate to the concept of "women's peacebuilding".

Students of Chaitanya's Microfinance Management Program

Here are a few excerpts from this report:

The mission of the Jankar program is directly related to the concept of “women’s peace-building”. As a whole, this organization is continuously working to break down systems of power. They work to provide access to resources for specific marginalized groups of people so that their lives’ may be improved. In women’s peacebuilding, “feminist analysis identifies women’s specific concerns about peacebuilding, approaches peacebuilding from women’s perspectives, welcomes pluralistic voices and diverse methods” (McKay & Mazurana, 2001, p. 3). By applying this concept to the Jankar program we can then ask critical questions about peacebuilding as it pertains to the women of rural villages. How do grassroots organizations empower their voices? What are differences and similarities between storytelling throughout various cultures? In what ways is peacebuilding seen across cultures? These are the types of questions that are important to remember when considering how an organization like Chaitanya is able to contribute to building systems of peace and equality for women in rural villages. With Chaitanya as a leader in developing and empower women’s leadership roles in their community and decision-making power this paved the way for some alleviation of rural women’s issues. However, there is still work to be done to help the lives of rural women and the need for women’s full participation and action is great. Chaitanya has focused on increasing the number of women that are involved in participation and decision-making. “These efforts are deemed critical to enhancing women’s peacebuilding initiatives and capacities for achieving a just peace” (McKay & Mazurana, 2001, p. 10). This type of impact gives a voice to women who have been oppressed or marginalized in their communities especially when it comes to their family life. Since domestic violence is often the reason why women come to the Jankar counseling center, increasing women’s participation will ensure that the issues are addressed appropriately.

...


As part of its mission, Legal Jankars inform their community about the services they provide for rural women. By reaching out to the community, at a personal level, the Jankars are able to meet with women who are interested in coming to the counsel center or becoming a Jankar themselves. This allows for growth, promotion, and continuity for the Jankar program and servicing women’s grievances. “Peacebuilding within women’s grassroots groups emphasizes relational behaviors, reconciliation and healing of psychological wounds” (McKay & Mazurana, 2001, p. 6). It also allows for groups to become tight-knit and form close relationships among one another. Having this type of focus strengthens the Jankar program at its core and helps to ensure power in numbers when a severe case arises. By having this collective outlook, women work together to solve the problems in their homes and villages.


...

The conflict resolving process for the Jankars is based on a model that is communal and personal. Within this framework the process of mediation involves many parties, such as elders and important community members. Value is placed on persons or groups who have been trusted in the community and are most often the mediators for interpersonal conflicts and dispute settlements.

Augsburger (1992) describes the following in regards to culture and the law:

Law as an abstract system of codified rules, collected cases, and established precedents may still be the dominant pattern of Western societies, but it is not, in human relational terms, the most effective or satisfactory pattern. In most societies a whole range of procedures and methods for resolving disputes and managing personal conflicts exists in addition to the use of court procedures

(p. 192).

The importance of community involvement in family and marriage matters for the rural areas of Maharashtra is emphasized in the Jankar program. Here there are community elders and leaders that help facilitate the counseling sessions and also educate and inform one another about issues that are most prevalent in the area. The Legal Jankar program means that there is a group of women who are active in knowing the laws and policies of the judicial system in India, but are not actually representing themselves as lawyers, but as skilled individuals that guide women who need assistance. This enables the mediator to actively have a voice for others and have the know-how of the law and what the rights of women are which is especially important in cases of domestic violence and abuse.

-----

My experience at Chaitanya allowed me to critical think about the ways in which gender issues affect women internationally. I was able to make similarities between America and India, as well as see big differences in the manner these things are handled, culture to culture. The biggest difference for me was the way counselors would mediate and facilitate the session. Mostly because there was more than 3 people involved. In the West we are used to one counselor and two parties. Here in India, it exceeded that number every time. This meant that there was often no structure in any way, at least for me, I did not see any. What I can take from this experience is knowing that the women of India are constantly fighting for their right to be heard, understood, and respected. This is a challenge and goal for women across the world.

As I move on from Chaitanya and into my next internship at Educate Girls, I expect that I will find similar goals but for the youth of India in education. I have already begun day two of this internship and will post shortly of my intentions and expectations as they relate to my background at university.

Swameeni.

Swameeni is an 11-year-old girl who lives in Daund with her mother, father, siblings, aunt, and grandmother. She currently attends school and is in the 5^th standard. Chaitanya and the Jankar program work within her neighborhood as it is a poor community that works mostly in the labor sector. Sopan Patil is the District Manager of the Daund office and has been working with the family on their case. Jankar Ganga Buke and I went visit the home and talk with the family about Swameeni’s experience.

One afternoon, Swameeni came home from school and for a moment she was there alone. The adults of the household were either at work or had stepped out to go to market. A 38-year-old man, and next door neighbor, came over to her house and immediately attempted to rape her. Swameeni was able to escape the man when she heard a group of her friends calling her to come out and play. She quickly ran to her friends, and when she saw her mother coming home she went to her crying and telling her what had happened. The family went straight to the police, but they would not take an official statement or give any concern for this matter.

Swameeni (center, purple dress) and her family.

Swameeni’s mother decided to go to the counseling center for help and support. The counselors formed a group of 42 Self-Help Group members and went to the police to demand a fair case report. The medical statement from the police reports that the girl was sexually assaulted on her breast, buttocks, and genital area. There was no bodily injury, bruises, scarring, marks, or penetration. However, there was a small patch of redness on her stomach that was not clear of how it occurred. At the time of the report Swameeni was identified to be a conscious, cooperative, well-nourished, and well-oriented child. The police arrested the neighbor and subsequently beat him for his offense. After which, he was spent two days in jail for attempted rape of a young girl.

The family seems to be strong and stable despite the unfortunate event and emotional damage it may have left. The mother is very grateful for the support that has been given from Chaitanya and relieved that the situation was handled. When the mother was asked if she was afraid for her children’s safety or thought that the same man would try to rape Swameeni again, she answered “No”. Her reason for this is because there was so much attention and pressure from the community, and he was punished by the police. However, she also answered that she does not allow or leave the children at home without an adult family member.

The perpetrator continues to live next door with his wife and two sons. They own a shop that sits in front of their home.

The Ladies of Loni.

The past weekend I traveled to Loni to visit my friends from Oregon. The bus ride was super long as I came from Pune instead of Rajgurunagar. I realized half way through it that I had no idea what Loni looks like, and since all the towns look the same to me, I had no idea where to get off. Luckily, I met a woman who was also going to Loni and I told her I would follow her lead.

Around 8pm the bus rolled into Loni, and as I was afraid I would miss the stop because the buses come and go so fast, I stood up as the bus was moving. I was trying to pull my backpack out from the overhead, but I couldn't get it. The man sitting next to me said he would help me, and I stood back. As I waited, the bus hit a really big bump, and I fell backwards into the lap of a well-rounded older woman. Thankfully no one seemed to notice, and luckily her belly broke my fall.

It was so good to meet up with my friends since I had only met them once at an orientation for our program. Sharon, Julia, and Andy are all doing medical rotations at Pravara Hospital. You know how it goes with chics, we all sit around together gossip, make each other laugh, and catch up on our experiences. We had ourselves a pretty sweet weekend consisting of delicious food, coconut water, a temple, a sugar/liquor distillery, a four hour drive to ancient caves, monkeys, and a look-a-like Taj Mahal.

Here is the journey in pictures:

Anita.

When I arrived at the bus station in Pune, I was greeted by Surekah Gaikwad who is a counselor at Zila Pradishad. She has been specializing in Family Counseling for over 10 years. Together we took a rickshaw to the counseling center where I would meet and talk with a current client.

I was introduced to Anita and she was informed of my presence and reason for internship with Chaitanya. She greeted me kindly and spoke some English. I was somewhat relieved. It is always a little awkward to be meet someone for the first time and know that they are about to tell you their personal marriage problems right then and there. Anita had no problem with this at all.


Anita is a 25 year old woman who was married in 2010 to a 26 year-old man. She has been educated up to the college level, but has not yet completed her degree. The husband has been educated up to the 10th standard. They live with his parents in a village outside of Pune.

Anita first came to the center on May 13, 2011 to discuss issues and concerns that have come about during her first year of marriage. She began by explaining that since the beginning of their marriage her husband has not been able to make a "positive adjustment". His behavior has been erratic and often treats her unkindly and with no respect. Often, the husband will verbally abuse her by yelling, shouting, and “rough talking” during arguments. The arguments are created by the husband who constantly targets her actions, behavior, and work around the house. The husband is believed to be a threat to her safety because he has physically harmed her body with scratches and cuts to her arms, causing her to bleed.

Anita began to notice that her husband was spending time with his brother’s wife and would not let her join the conversation or enter the room. She has come to find that he has been having an affair with the sister-in-law, which perhaps this is the cause of much of the tension and anger that he is having towards his wife. This situation has clearly been affecting her self-esteem as she was quite upset and frustrated during our session.

The husband has not been willing to come to the counseling center to talk with Surekah. She has even went out to the village to see him herself, but was not received well. It seems that he also shouts at people who are not his wife, and want to talk about his affair and marriage problems. The only thing he could manage to say is that he is not the problem, but Anita is. He refuses to talk and when he has he lies about what his behavior has been like.

I asked Anita if she would like to stay married since as of now, he does not. She does want to be married to him, but only if he is able to change and become a husband that she deserves. Anita was joined by her uncle, mother, and brother, and all were in agreement to compromise so that the marriage would last. However, if they end up getting a divorce it could be difficult for Anita to marry again as Indian culture has very much stigmatized a divorced woman.

Together we talked about our perceptions of marriage, well to a point. With losing meaning in translation there is only so much one can communicate and understand. I can only hope that it gets better for Anita. Whatever the outcome is, I know that she deserves happiness and to be treated with respect from her husband.

My Indian Family.

One morning I was trying to explain to a woman, who was also staying at the guesthouse, that I needed to take my dresses to a tailor. She walked me down the street and introduced me to my neighbor and local seamstress, and I handed her four dresses. When I came back that evening I was greeted, charged 50 rupees ($1) and welcomed in for chai.

Since then I have become close with the family, the daughter and her friends. I couldn't be any happier! They've invited me for dinner, taken studio photos with me (which I suppose I will post), walked me home, dressed me in a sari, and like to practice English and Marathi with me. Although, I'd say they are far better at what they are learning.

Here's some photos of Mrs. Pacharne, Namrata, Nilum, Samiksha, Samreet, and I.

I love my new family.

Trouble in Paradise.

Ahmednagar, MH

With Legal Jankar staff, we drove three hours east to a city called Ahmednagar. I was cramped with four other people in the back, praying that the door didn't open and I would fall out every time the jeep hit a bump. It was hot, and then of course, the rains came after awhile.

Ganga tai & Jayshri tai

Our mission today was to end a love marriage. The couple had been together for about 2 years before deciding to get married. Once they said their vows, just three days after the wife announced that she wanted a divorce. From what I was told it was because he had sexually harassed her after they were married.

This reason was considered by the Jankar, but also many felt that it was a false accusation. Primarily, because love marriages are not accepted by families. Which means that her father and family may have pressured her into finding a way out of the marriage. The Jankars also thought she was lying because of the history of relationship between the couple. This of course, I had to question myself since who can know for sure if she was "crying wolf" or telling the truth.

Regardless, here's how it all went down.

Nirmala Chaudhari & Arika tai

Chaitanya's co-founder, Arika-tai, met with lawyer and founder of Nyayadhar for Women's Rights, to facilitate and mediate the divorce process. This also included an audience of about 10 others, including yours truly. There were lots of arguments, pleading of cases, and silence. Neither husband or wife ever said one word. After about an hour the deed was done. The lawyers assistant typed up the notice in a rather old and dusty computer, and the marriage was canceled. I suppose this could be the equivalent of an annulment in the States. It seemed too easy for a process especially India's bureaucratic system. But, we said goodbye to the husband, which both sides seemed somewhat relieved to move on. Although, I couldn't help but notice him looking after her as she hopped on a motorcycle with her father.




All in all, the concept of love and arranged marriage has become rather interesting to me.

Over 90% of marriages in India are still arranged. Less than 5% end in divorce.

For one, this is part of the Indian culture is so obviously different from what the majority of Americans/Westerners know. Arranged marriages?! As in, never met before the wedding. As in, your parents decide for you. Total gamble for your future. The fact that our culture takes so much effort to focus our attention on what love is, falling in love, chemistry, true love, and having a soul mate it's hard to imagine what someone is going through during the process of an arranged marriage. Take a look at the divorce rate. We all know Americas: HALF of all marriages end in DIVORCE. Who's to say that the rest of India's 95% is in a happy and loving marriage? Most of the time it is very difficult for marriages to end and can be quite costly.

So is it better to marry for love or not?

I'd really like to continue with this at a later time. For now, I will post.

Lesson Learned.

Okay people! What’s the number one thing that we all should know when traveling to a foreign country?? I’ll give you a hint: You can't go home with out it...

DING! DING! DING!

If you answered “Always have your passport” then you will go very far in this world.

Me on the other hand...

Last Thursday, as I got ready to leave for work I did my every-couple-days check in on my passport. Now, I know that a passport is like the holy grail so I like to keep it in a super secret, safe spot: under my mattress. Who would ever think to look there, right? Flip the mattress, there it is, easy as pie. Well, this day I noticed that there was something different, something that wasn't there before. It was a sticker on the front of my passport. That's odd, I thought. I grabbed it, sat on the bed, and when I opened the booklet I saw all these stamps that said I have been to the Bahamas and Singapore, which I never have. I shouted a particular curse word that was definitely appropriate and then saw that the picture that was supposed to be me, was in fact a younger, much lighter woman!

Thankfully, as it turned out, it was the other intern, Kourtney, that arrived in Mumbai the same day as me. She and I attended orientation the following day and a staff member made copies of our passports. When he handed them back to us individually, we did not think to check them and put them away safely in our bags.

What's funny is that Kourtney and I did not look at our passport for quite some time. I left that day after orientation, and she stayed for over a week in Mumbai before heading to her work site in Rajasthan. When I finally contacted her via Facebook, she said that she realized the mistake when she was already on the train headed up north. I figured as much since I hadn't heard from her, and when I saw her passport I knew that she had already gone the day before.

Luckily, I am headed to Rajasthan after completing my internship in Maharashtra. I will be at the same site, Educate Girls, that she is currently at. And thankfully, she will still be there and not need her passport prior to that. What an odd circumstance. It seems almost pointless that the universe would decide to throw this at us since we will easily be able to exchange them.

If anything, I will never forget to always make sure that I have MY passport. Until I get it back, I will continue to guard this passport as though it were...well, somebody else's passport.

Everything Exposed.

This past week was full of many different events, exciting, exhausting and somewhat depressing.

Monday started off with a visit to the Jankar counsel sessions, which takes place at the guesthouse lounge where I am staying. This is not your typical marriage counseling session, at least not by Western standards. There are no confidentiality agreements, no appointments made, and by no means any privacy. Yep, that’s right. All your problems are exposed to the next client, as well as your family and everyone else’s. Oh, and me, but that’s no big deal because I can’t understand anything that is being said.

Regardless of the logistical arrangement, the session was quite the spectacle. Did I mention there can be more than one counselor at any point during these meetings? That is what I found to be both interesting and confusing. Interesting because with this process you have various minds coming together to support the outcome of the parties’ issues. Confusing because how do counselors work to gain the trust of both parties if they are constantly switching around? Many other questions come to mind around this process. What does it entail for the husband and wife? Does their argument increase or decrease with the switching of Jankar? What about the audience, how does this affect their ability to be truthful with the counselor(s)?

Jankar counsel session

Well, actually, that last question might be an easy one to answer: Not at all! I may not be able to understand Marathi, but I can sure comprehend body language, tone, expressions, and I think I am a pretty good judge of vibes that are sent out. Nothing is held back it seems, and you can especially tell when things get heated and all sides begin to raise their voices. Be that as it may, intercultural communication, translating non-verbal messages, and listening to people shouting in another language can be very tiring. After sometime, I went up to my flat to take a quick snooze.

On Wednesday I went with my co-workers to a village outside of Rajgurunagar to celebrate Chaitanya’s first year completion of their health insurance program. This program was developed to provide health benefits and medical care to the rural women and their families at a reasonable cost. I believe the figures are 150-200 rupees…which is like $3-4 dollars. This is for ONE year of health insurance. Now granted, we live in very different societies, and costs are extremely different for each. But in a society that is quite corrupt in maintaining its credibility as caring for the people of its country (wait, corruption? insurance? I forget if I’m talking about America or India), this service provides basic care for a community that is underprivileged and marginalized, as well as faces extreme health issues. Thanks to Chaitanya, which is an NGO, for developing this program and the staff for carrying out the mission.

Chaitanya's Health Event & 1 Year Celebration

Speaking of health concerns…

This is probably going to be really gross for some of you readers, but I think it is appropriate and necessary for me to post. So the other day after work I walked out of the office building and began walking down the dirt road. I looked down the road and notice that there was a little girl going to the bathroom right out in the open. I see this girl quite often as her father owns a little shop just outside the office. I thought, “How funny, she’s peeing on the side of the road”. Actually this was not the case at all. I managed not to look for one second as I thought she may want some privacy, but as I waited to cross the street I saw it all. Yup, she was pooping. I crossed the street and chuckled to myself while trying to get the image off my mind. Now seriously though, what struck me was that she did not have a solid stool, it was basically diarrhea. As I continued to walk further down the road I thought about how this health issues is of great concern for many children in India. Diarrhea is a big problem, and is the second major cause of death here.

"Children weakened by frequent diarrhea episodes are more vulnerable to malnutrition and opportunistic infections such as pneumonia. About 48% of children in India are suffering from some degree of malnutrition. Diarrhea and worm infection are two major health conditions that affect school age children impacting their learning abilities" (UNICEF INDIA).

I realized that this could possibly be a daily routine for her, and that she is one of 240 million children under the age of 5 in India not getting the proper nutrition and diet that a young girl needs.

Mother & Child at Chaitanya's health celebration.

Experiencing Religion.

Every morning, Chaitanya begins the day with the same prayer. I have no idea what it means, but it's actually a nice way to ease into my day. I will try and get the translation soon. For now, I have managed to record it:

http://www.mediafire.com/?2fe5w2d25iskkwt

It is very beautiful to hear the women sing in unison.

Yesterday, I was invited to temple with my new friend Punam Raval. She and her family are from the state of Gujurat, which is just above Maharashtra. The walk was not far from the town, about 15 minutes or so, just off the highway. Yes, we walked along a highway.

As we got closer and closer to the temple, I noticed how quiet our surroundings became. There was only the sound of birds chirping, trees swaying, and our chopped up Marathi/English voices.

When we arrived at the temple, I was stopped in my tracks, mainly because I was hesitant to enter as I am not Hindu. I had no intentions to intrude, but Punam insisted and ensured me that I could take photographs. We took off our shoes (instantly, I stepped in bird shit :) and I followed her around the temple as she said her prayers.

The sounds and smells of the temple complimented and overlapped one another. Flowers and fruits were either lying scattered on the ground or piled together with incense burning. Puja, as this is called, or a symbolic offering.

What struck me the most was the inner shrine. I was definitely cautious of entering this since I was totally an 'outsider' and had no idea of the customs and practices. Punam, again led me in with her. As she placed the bindu (red powder dot) upon my forehead, I listened to the echoing sounds of the mantras. Being someone who is not religious, and who has no interest in practicing one, I found myself very honored and grateful for having this opportunity to see a religious custom. It allowed me to remind myself that I can respect religion and the people who practice even though I choose not to follow.

First Week in India.

My first week in India has been quite eventful and memorable. Arriving in Mumbai and seeing my first glimpses of the city was intense and hilarious. It's amazing how many people are in this country. When I was taken by car to Rajgurunagar, I thought that there would be less people because the location is further out and in the valley. That was not the case at all! Every where I looked there were people bustling and moving about. I couldn't believe it. I suppose with a country population of 1.2 billion it would be difficult to escape people. I thought that Rajgurunagar would be a small village of 20,000 poeple, but from what I was told there is anywhere from 40-60,000. This range is mostly due to the fact that no one gives an exact census to the government because otherwise taxes would increase, and the government would most likely use the funds to further corrupt practices. Very interesting.

On Tuesday I met my supervisor, Kalpana, and we discussed my goals and expectations for my internship at Chaitanya. We agreed that it would be best to take the week to get acquainted with the organization and the programs that are carried out. I mentioned that I would be interested in the Jankar program, which is focused around domestic violence and counseling for women and families. I think that this area would be helpful in understanding the dynamics of conflict within Indian culture and how counselors go about the process of resolving issues in the home.

Street in Rajgurunagar. Everyone drives a motorcycle. EVERYONE.

Kalpana invited me to a monthly Federation meeting that was being held in Junnar, about an hour from Rajgurunagar. First day and off to field work? Why not?! We took a truck out there and I was excited to see the local area. The drive was hilarious. Lots of speeding, sharp turns, driving in the opposite lane, oh, and honking. Lots of honking. Kalpana explained that the first rule of the road is: If you're bigger, you go first! Use the horn! So funny. I have both enjoyed and have been annoyed by the traffic here. All part of the experience!

We arrived in Junnar and I was introduced to a large group of mainly women, all who have membership and play important roles within Chaitanya. I did not sit in on the entire meeting, but was able to have a small discussion/interview with some of the Legal Jankars. There are three types of Jankars: Legal, Government, and Self Help Group (SHG) Jankar. Their goal is to train women in the areas of gender sensitive laws and women's rights. Legal Jankars will use counseling skills to help resolve family issues and problems, as well as inform women of their legal rights in India.

View of Rajgurunagar from atop a hill.

Chaitanya is the leading organization in promoting micro-finance programs in Maharashtra and is the first federation of SHG's in the state. The organization has been successful at forming 14 federations in 7 districts. The goal of the federation is to provide equitable and and affordable financial services to women.

As I said before, I didn't sit in on most of the meeting, mainly because it was all conducted in Marathi. I was able to talk with a few of the Jankars and was thankful to have a "translator", who is also my new friend, Tushar. This was quite an event. Turns out that Tushar has been lacking in his English skills, and since I have very little Hindi or Marathi knowledge there became a whole mess of translation errors and confusion. Most of which was laughed at. From what I could gather, the Legals were discussing with me different cases that they encounter that happen within their towns. Anything from domestic violence, issues with in-laws, and farming and land disputes. Many of the women have been working with Chaitanya for 10 or more years. They enjoy and work hard to promote the sustainability of women rights and empowerment.

Students of the Micro-Financing Management Program at Chaitanya

The rest of the week I took time to figure out what I wanted to do as far as my learning outcome and project. I read a few different reports about rural health for women in the Pune district and got more and more interested in that aspect. I had the opportunity to witness a negotiation of health services to be given to a local tribal village by a doctor in Junnar. It seemed that the process went really well as the doctor was from the tribal village. He agreed that he would conduct services for free once a week. After this meeting, Kalpana and I drove out to the tribal village to inform the leader that the people would begin receiving services that week. Tushar, Kalpana, and I went out to celebrate by grabbing a quick bite of fried vegetables.

On Friday, I went back to Junnar with my fellow intern and friend, Katarina who has been here for four weeks now and doing a report about the selection process of Jankars and the formation of SHG's. We were going to a Legal Jankar Training that was conducted by Ganga thai. She is a young women who has been involved in this area for a few years. There were 5 women who showed for the training. To become a Jankar you must be involved in trainings that happen once a month for one year. The topic for that afternoon was about domestic violence, what it is, where it occurs, and how to confront it. The students were informed about the Domestic Violence Act of 2005 that was passed in India.

The DV Act was passed to protect women from the hands of their abuser, whether it is a husband, live-in partner or the relatives of the partner. The law also extends to women who are sisters, widows, or mothers. The act defines domestic violence as being physical, emotional, economic. sexual, and verbal, as well as harassment of an unlawful dowry. One of the most important features of this act is the women's right to property and secure housing. The woman has the right to stay in the home that she has been married into regardless if her name is on the title or if she has rights to the house. This residence order has been passed by the court which is secured and cannot be passed against any woman. The law also enforces that the abuser cannot be engaged in communication or visit the abused at their place of work, or isolate any assets that are shared in the household. Women are also provided medical care, legal aid, and shelter.

Ganga-thai teaching about DV to Legal Jankar trainees

Coming to this meeting was very helpful in figuring out what it is that I want to focus on. Given that I am a student of Conflict Resolution I thought that it would be best to understand the dynamics of power and conflict within a family dispute or violence situation. How does cultural expectations and traditions fuel conflict within the home? What are the ways in which families handle conflict? What do Legal Jankars do to help the process of engaging in dialogue with spouses to overcome conflict or areas of DV? How are extended family members involved and what do they contribute to the overall process of conflict resolution? Or do the fuel the fire? I spoke with Kalpana about this idea and she gave me input on how this information could be useful for new staff members who come to work as counselors. By looking at different cases and examples from the past, as well as present ones, I should be able to gather information about dynamics and processes that counselors participate in. This would also help in making suggestions about what could be done to improve the conditions and functions of counselors.

It's been a long week, but a productive first week. It seems like it has been longer than a week given that I have not only been working, but also becoming acquainted with my living arrangements, with the people, and of course, eating so much good food! I have seriously been enjoying this time and I am hopeful and excited for the next 7 weeks I have here in Rajgurunagar!

And So the Journey Begins.

The day is finally here, people! Adios, Portland. Take care, USA. You will be missed, but the time has come to leave my home. It felt so surreal waking up this morning, knowing my days will soon be spent in India. Today has been circled, underlined, and starred in my calendar. With lots of exclamation points saying "India!!!!" This is totally nuts. I am completely giving myself to a new culture, to have everything thrown at me. I am ready to be stunned, shocked, excited, elated, confused, and humored.

These past couple weeks have been amazing in Portland. I finished up my first year of grad school and celebrated this victory with my cohorts. My employment at Pix Patisserie was wrapped up and it felt wonderful to be leaving on such good terms after nearly 4 years of slinging sweets and spirits. All my friends and family have been so supportive and excited for this trip, and I have enjoyed saying goodbye to them, either in person or by phone. Saying goodbye to my fiance Dan was not as bad as I thought it would be. Mainly because he has been incredibly supportive of my decision to intern in India from day one. Of course I will miss him, but because of his positive attitude it won't be so bad and I will be able to focus on the work I do. Thank you everyone for being so wonderful and giving your positive support!

In the meantime, I will be hanging out at SFO while I wait for my connecting flight to London. Which has now been delayed...

Mumbai in Film.

Over the weekend I watched Salaam Bombay, a film about a young boy named Chaipau who lives on the streets, and struggles to work is way out of Bombay (Mumbai). This film, which made its way onto my Netflix queue, was produced in 1988 by director Mira Nair, and was comprised of a cast that was full of children who had actually been living on the streets at the time. When I began watching this film I was instantly reminded of the recent Hollywood sensation, Slumdog Millionaire, and how similar, but extremely different the two are. What Slumdog lacks is the true grit that it takes to make it out of Bombay while at the same time being a realistic and compelling story. I am convinced that this blockbuster is anything but a Hollywood film that would fulfill our expectations of having a happy ending. Which is why I have been so moved by Salaam Bombay. It is not what you expect, yet everything you could about children living on the streets of the fast moving, fast growing metropolis.

Manju & Chaipau of Salaam Bombay

I won't spoil the film for you all, but I will discuss a few things that stood out to me as I watched the film. Life on the street, as I would imagine, is painfully difficult in a big city full of millions of people, especially as a child. This film explored the constant changes and spontaneous events that come up for both children and adults who live on the streets of Mumbai. From the daughter of a prostitute who longs to play with and get attention from her parents, to a boy who works selling and delivering chai tea to save money so he can go home. Poverty is constantly an issue for the characters of this film. It is a reminder that there are millions of people who have no way out, no access to resources and institutions that can pave a way to a better life. It is also a reminder, at least for me, of what we often take for granted. I am grateful for my life; I know that I am privileged to have not grown up in extreme poverty. Through this internship, my goal is to give back to the global community, to India, and learn from the experiences of this culture while at the same time being present and understanding. Suspending. Not judging.

Director Mira Nair

Also, what is interesting about the production of Salaam Bombay, the director established a fund for the street children that were in her film in order to rehabilitate them and help them get off the street. The trust is still in existence and continues to help children of Mumbai.

So, no. This film was not catchy in the sense that it had the sounds of M.I.A.'s Paper Planes echoing in the background. It certainly didn't have the true romance of star-crossed lovers yearning to be together. Not at all. It had a taste of reality, of what perhaps poverty is like in India. Although I have yet to be there, just short of a few weeks, I would say that I felt so much more connected to the point and interests that Salaam Bombay was trying to achieve. Watch it! Compare the two!

Finishing Touches.

Well, as of yesterday my program coordinator of IE3 let me know that India Study Abroad Program accepted my application for internship. This means that for eight weeks I will be at Chaitanya in the state of Maharashtra, and four weeks at Educate Girls in Rajasthan. So excited!

At the moment my dates of internship are June 19th to September 10th. I am not sure which place I will be at first, but will hopefully know that all very soon so that I may book my ticket.

More on this coming soon!